Hyaluronic Acid
An interview with Dr. Carol Cooper of Dermal Research Laboratories explaining how and why Hyaluronic Acid works on our skin.
1. What is hyaluronan? Hyaluronan (also called hyaluronic acid or HA) is a very large biopolymer found throughout the body - in the blood, the lymph, tears, and the space between the cells.
HA serves a variety of functions in the body.
" It is what makes up the material that stiffens the eyeball;
" It is the viscous substance that cushions the joints; and
" It serves as a naturally occurring anti-inflammatory when found in high molecular weight form.
" It forms the fluid between the cells and allows nutrients to flow freely.
Half the total amount of the body's hyaluronan is found in the skin. Within the skin, the long HA molecule bends and coils back onto itself into long tunnels that form structural elements in support of other important molecules, such as collagen and elastin. This structure also attracts large quantities of water and is responsible for the plumping of the skin and the moist youthful appearance of the surface. This water of hydration also promotes movement of nutrients and cellular metabolites
2. Why is it important in skin care? UV rays from the sun, oxidative stress, and aging can all cause progressive alterations in the structure of the skin. In many cases, all of these occur at the same time causing dramatic changes in the skin's appearance.
Aging: In young skin, hyaluronan is distributed fairly uniformly throughout the skin. Aged skin (that is sheltered from the sun), however, is almost completely devoid of hyaluronic acid on the surface, causing thinning, fine wrinkles and a dry appearance. As skin ages, the hyaluronan moves into the deepest layers of the skin and becomes tightly associated with proteins. The water of hydration has been "squeezed" out and movement of nutrients is impaired. In addition to changes in appearance, this shift in location of HA also leads to the chronic skin problems often associated with aging.
UV: UV radiation from the sun causes different problems. Continual inflammation of the skin results in the build-up of scar-type tissue resulting in deep wrinkles, loss of tone, and roughness. Hyaluronan, acting as a naturally occurring anti-inflammatory in the skin, is continually depleted as a result of the UV radiation. This depletion is worsened with age as the HA moves deeper into the tissues, resulting in the appearance of deep wrinkles at a faster rate.
Reactive Oxygen Species: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are created by the breakdown of certain molecules within the body as we age, and can damage the skin by causing the breakdown of the HA. Poor nutrition, UV light, and environmental pollutants can all increase the presence of ROS and therefore the breakdown of hyaluronan in the skin.
All of these problems revolve around the loss of hyaluronan from the skin. Therefore regular replacement of this vital polymer is necessary to maintain healthy, young-looking skin. The antioxidants in Dr. Greenfield's products protect against ROS attack on hyaluronan. The high concentration of HA replenishes the HA lost by ROS.
3. Are there different types of hyaluronan? Biochemically, hyaluronan has a specific molecular structure of two repeating units of N-Acetylglucosamine and Glucuronic acid organized into very long chains. The length of the chain is the important factor with respect to the effectiveness of the molecule for various purposes. Chains less than 1 million tend to be absorbed better through the very tough skin barrier, but are less effective as structural components, in holding water, and acting as an anti-inflammatory against damaging UV rays. Chains longer than 1 million are more difficult to get through the skin, but are much more effective in renewing damaged structures, holding water, and in fighting inflammation.
4. What is different about the hyaluronan in Dr. Greenfield's products? Dr. Greenfield's products use a patented delivery system that has been shown to deliver hyaluronan chains greater than 1 million through the skin. This unique system insures that these very large molecules are absorbed and are able to do their job in renewing the structures of the skin. The slight fragrance of mint tells you the product is working.
5. Why is the Dr. Greenfield product more effective than the expensive department store brands?
Many high-end cosmetics contain hyaluronan, but there is no indication on the label whether the chain-length is appropriate to do the job, nor is there any indication of whether there is a sufficient amount to make a difference. Most importantly, there is no indication that the hyaluronan even penetrates below the surface to do anything more than form a water absorbing film. Charles Revson, founder of the Revlon Cosmetic Company once said "In the factories we make cosmetics, in the stores we are selling hope." Much of the cost of department store cosmetics goes to advertising - selling hope - and less into the ingredients used.
Dr. Greenfield's products contain the best skin care ingredients available and are sold directly to you without expensive full-page advertising and department store space and personnel. We put our efforts into maximizing ingredients for efficacy. They are engineered to do their job by penetrating the skin with hyaluronan of the proper chain length to provide the best possible outcome. When you apply Dr. Greenfield's products, the hyaluronan immediately forms a very thin layer on the surface of the skin, which absorbs water from the air creating a continual moisturizing film on the epidermis. Additionally, however, the remaining molecules penetrate the upper layer of the skin to replenish hyaluronan in deeper layers.
6. How will I know it is helping my skin? Skin care is a journey that should begin at an early age and continued rigorously through time. Regular application is most useful as a preventative measure and prolong the appearance of youthful skin, avoiding surgery and other invasive procedures. Over a series of weeks, you will feel and see the difference in the luminous look of your face and neck. This is a product for your lifetime, not until the next shiny package of hope comes along.
7. Will it affect my other make up? Hyaluronan will not affect other make up. In fact, it will improve the moisture base and work with make up to give a more natural appearance. If you use a foundation product, experiment with the amount you use. Because the moisturizer provides a perfect facial pallet, you will see better results with less foundation.
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